TYPICAL PRODUCTS FROM CALABRIA: THE SWORDFISH BAGNAROTA
STYLE
D.e.C.O.
Swordfish Bagnarota style (or Bagnarese style) is a traditional dish from Bagnara Calabra, a seaside village on the Costa Viola in the province of Reggio Calabria, which has obtained the municipal denomination of origin (De.C.O.).
Municipal designation of origin
The municipal denomination of origin (De.C.O.), or municipal denomination (De.Co.), is a recognition granted by the local municipal administration to a product, generally closely linked to the territory and its community, without any overlap with the existing denominations of origin.
The De.C.O. were established following Law nº 142 of 8 June 1990, which allows municipalities the power to regulate, within the principles of administrative decentralisation, on the subject of enhancing traditional agri-food activities. Since 2002, they have normally been established on the basis of a model regulation prepared by ANCI.
The De.Co. have also been used, in some rare cases, to enhance folk events, such as the Divota commedia in Alessandria or the Via Crucis in Vogogna.
The Municipal Denomination of Origin (unlike the PDO, PGI and TSG marks) is not a quality mark, but a certificate from a municipality, approved following a municipal resolution.
Swordfish fishing
Contemporary practices:
From 1952 onwards, due to the poor performance of this activity some changes were introduced such as the introduction of the gangway and the first motor, these led to an increase in revenue. With the passage of time (1981-82), the construction materials also changed (often using metal) and the gangway was lengthened. The best Luntre were built in Calabria in Bagnara and Scilla or in Sicily. Boats like these have all but disappeared as they are considered cumbersome to run and operate, but they are still used by some fishermen. One example, built in 1954 in Chianalea by an old shipwright, was bought in 1981 by the municipality of Scilla and kept on public display as a historical relic.
Modern specimens (always called "Feluche"), consist of a high tower for sighting and a gangway for harpooning; these two parts are very important because, directly connected by ropes and tie-rods, they guarantee stability to the boat. The boat is also equipped with two engines to cope with the currents of the Strait. The tower raised in the middle of the boat has a crow's nest at the top, inside which the last member of the crew, perhaps the most important one, takes his place, since it gives information about navigation and the presence or absence of fish. The latest invention in the field of boats are the spadare, sturdy boats that allow one to go to the high seas and catch large numbers of fish with the help of long nets. The system was later banned by the ECF, which brought fishermen back to using the old techniques.
Swordfish fishing is a practice of remote origin, already described by Polybius (a Greek historian from the 2nd century BC). Handed down from generation to generation, it is nowadays carried out in Calabria and Sicily using modern techniques.
Swordfish, this fascinating and prized fish, is "hunted" in the seas around the Straits of Messina and especially on the Costa Viola (the whole area of the province of Reggio Calabria, from Villa San Giovanni to Palmi).
Throughout the Costa Viola, swordfish fishing is carried out in the same way as its ancestors, although some aspects of this activity have naturally changed over the centuries. The technique and technology have changed a lot, but the fascination of this fishery has remained unchanged.
History
Swordfish fishing has very ancient origins; in fact, it was already practised in the second century BC. Originally, no boat was used: Polybius described this tradition in his works, making the reader feel the amazement he felt when he first saw a Calabrian fisherman lurking on the rocks and waiting with his harpoon for the swordfish. Polybius also describes other traditions and customs such as the use of turrets and gangways. These customs, handed down from generation to generation, have meant that for more than two thousand years the original technique of fishing in the Straits of Messina has remained almost unchanged: sighting the fish, chasing it or waiting for it, throwing a harpoon at it and fighting it.
Technique and boats in the modern age:
Unlike in antiquity, in the last few centuries (probably from the 15th century) a type of boat of Arab origin was introduced, called the Felucca or Luntre, the latter name deriving from the Latin linter. The felucca is a small boat, 5 to 7 metres long, without a keel, which was required to be as stable as possible, with a crew of five oarsmen and a harpooner. These changed disposition at times, with the exception of the fifth man who climbed up the main mast to sight the prey.
In the construction of the boat the quality of the timber varied: sometimes pine, mulberry or oak. The planking was thin and light and the boat was traditionally painted black on the outside so as to be less visible to fish, and green on the inside. In order to keep the harpoons ready, two maschitti, vertical boards with two scales each, were inserted interlockingly on the edges to the right and left of the harpooner, where the harpoon rods rested transversely.
There was a sort of hierarchy among the crew. From the top of the mast of the felucca, the fisherman known as the antenniere would raise an alarm when he spotted the swordfish. The fisherman would try to seize the right moment to launch the spear, which would be tied to the boat with a long line.
At this point, following a very strict ritual, a real fight was waged, and accidents were frequent, so the protection of the blessed Saint Mary was invoked when the spear was thrown. The speared fish would surface, jump out of the water and sink, until it surrendered to the fisherman in exhaustion.
It often happened that the mate of the swordfish that had been hit, seeing its mate in danger, would try to defend it, sometimes trying to attack the man, but instead causing its own capture, this couple is called "paricchia". This incredible story of love and death was interpreted by the singer Domenico Modugno in the song "U pisci spada".
The stricken fish is hoisted on board and a fisherman carves a mark near the gill, called "a Cardata ra cruci" as a sign of respect. This sign is followed by others, handed down and respected by the fishermen. At the end of fishing, the animal is covered and sheltered from the sun so as not to alter its freshness and properties.
We recommend that you take an active part in a fishing tourism session, which you can take part in thanks to some groups of fishermen who host tourists, the curious and lovers of this unique activity on their typical boats, the so-called "spatare" or "passerelle". Since it is a type of fishing that is not massive and industrial, it is only possible to take part in it in the period from 1 May to 30 September. The rest of the year, be wary of anyone who tells you that the swordfish on offer is "fresh". The ancient fishing village also has a number of cosy B&Bs where you can stay, so don't hesitate, you will have an unforgettable experience in Scilla and particularly in Chianalea.
Characterisation of SWORD FISH
BAGNAROTA STYLE
Product description
The name "PESCE SPADA ALLA BAGNAROTA" (Swordfish cooked in the sea) is, in the technique of preparation, This recipe represents an easy to prepare second course, a different way of cooking and serving fish in respect of the bagnarese tradition. Simple to prepare and very tasty thanks to the combination of typical Mediterranean ingredients such as cherry tomatoes, capers and olives, this dish brings to the table the sun and the sea of the beautiful coasts of the Strait.
Physical and organoleptic characteristics
Shape: whole slice of swordfish
Average size: weight: between 150 and 220 gr.
External appearance: whole slices of swordfish enriched with a light sauce composed of cherry tomatoes, pepper, oregano, basil, parsley and capers (optional ingredient). Whole wheat croutons can be added to complete the dish (optional addition) Consistency: Soft. Taste: The strong flavor of the swordfish is combined with the sweetness of fresh tomatoes, pepper, oregano, basil, parsley and capers, bringing to the table the characteristic flavors of the beautiful cliffs of the Bagnara coast.
Production Area
The production area of 'PESCE SPADA alla BAGNAROTA' is the entire administrative territory of the municipality of Bagnara, in the province of Reggio Calabria.
Description of the production method
The traditional recipe of 'PESCE SPADA ALLA BAGNAROTA' foresees the use of the following ingredients:
Method of production of "BAGNAROTA" SWORD FISH
In order to obtain the product, the following operations must be carried out according to the instructions below:
Preparation
a)take the cherry tomatoes and cut them into chunks
b) pour a little oil into a large frying pan, bring it to the right temperature and add the garlic.
c) fry for a few minutes and then add the cherry tomatoes (optional step for the red version)
d) simmer for a few minutes, then add the swordfish slices and brown them on both sides.
e) If necessary, add the fish stock or water, olives, capers, oregano, salt and pepper.
f) cook over a medium heat for ten minutes until the fish is cooked through and the sauce is concentrated.
Serving
Place the swordfish slice in the centre of the serving dish, add the cooking juices, chopped parsley and optionally some whole-wheat bread croutons.
Connection with the territory
the product's link to the territory in question is demonstrated by historical, economic-productive and cultural factors.
Historical factors
In the waters of the Strait of Messina, a type of fishing is still practised, taking advantage of the migration of swordfish from May to October, whose origins are lost in the mists of time. The writer Polybius described this type of fishing exactly in the second century BC. Furthermore, there are sources which testify to the fact that swordfish were already being fished in the Straits of Messina, particularly under the cliff of Scylla, between the 17th and 15th centuries BC.
In fact, remains of prehistoric villages dating back to the Bronze Age have come to light, including some meal waste containing swordfish bones. The swordfish sometimes weighs up to 3 quintals and is 4 metres long.
It is characterised by its long, prominent sword and has a very high nutritional value, so much so that the ancients considered it to be divine food. For this reason, this fish is a sought-after prey.
Swordfish fishing, except for a few technological adjustments (the arms and oars have been replaced by motors, the mast of the felucca by the trellis) has remained similar to that of earlier times. There were once two types of fishing boat. The first, fast and manoeuvrable, was for daytime fishing and was called Untri. Its name seems to derive from Linter, a flat-bottomed boat used by the Romans for fishing and coastal transport.
The Untri had a mast, called a "farere", about 3 metres high which was placed in the centre of the boat and on which a spotter called a "faleroto" climbed. This is a light, sleek boat with a bow and stern.
Unlike the other boats, it has a wider stern at the top to accommodate the launcher at the top of the catch. Painted black on the outside to avoid reflecting shadows into the sea, it was all green on the inside. The rest of the crew consisted of four rowers, each distinguished by the tasks they had to perform and the position of their oars (a paleddha at the bow, u stremu e nta spaddha in the middle, i puppa at the stern) and a flapper (lanzaturi).
Among the rowers, the two youngest, placed at the front, acted as the engine while the other two acted as the rudder, changing the direction of the boat. The sighting of the fish would suddenly transform this fishing, which was based on patience and waiting, into a general dynamism. The lookout, trying not to lose sight of the fish, would encourage the rowers to speed up the movement of their arms to the cry of 'pe' fora' or 'pe' 'nterra', depending on the route chosen by the swordfish. Over the centuries, the Untri has undergone several modifications, including more numerous crews. An additional, unarmed boat, the felucca, was put out to sight the swordfish; in some cases there were two or three feluccas, one close to the coast, the other further away and a possible third halfway.
The spotters (banniaturi), in competition with other colleagues, especially on the Calabrian coast, could also be found on some rocks or hills. They communicated the sighting to the untro, associated with them, by means of white flags or oars.
The fish belonged to the first person who spotted it and the boat had and still has the right to trespass on other people's posts, until the catch or sinking of the prey. There were 18 posts in the north-south direction: Posticea, Surrantino, Perialapa, Santuleo, Grutta, Mustalà, Cefarea, Santi, Gramà, Bilusci, Capo, Marturano, Serena, Jumara, Canali, Aria, Schittari, Rustico. The allocation of the area takes place on 10 April and in ancient times the draw was held in the Abbey of St. Mary of the XII Apostles. At the cry of thanksgiving to St Mark, the swordfish was spearfished with a two-pronged harpoon (draffinera), probably of Arab origin; it was then left to run freely until it became tired, so that it could be recovered without difficulty with the line that was tied to the harpoons. The second type of boat, the palamitara, was used for night fishing.
Fishing was carried out by setting nets up to 1000 m long, which were called palamitare, hence the name of the boat. According to a tradition, which to some extent still survives, fishing was carried out in pre-established areas, usually 10 posts, which in turn were divided into smaller areas. Longlines were also used to catch albacore and blue fish in general. Today, in the straits and along the Calabrian coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, swordfish are caught using motorboats with a 20-25 m high mast, at the top of which are spotters and helmsmen, and a gangway up to 45 m long, at the end of which goes the spearman (fureri). Despite new technological advances, fishing is still steeped in ancient rituals.
For example, in the last few ancient trawlers, the custom of placing a pole on the prow with a blue or red wooden ball at the top, on which the stars of Ursa Major were painted, separated by a white band, probably a reference to Phoenician culture, survives. Another ritual, which over time has become a kind of territorial right, was to divide the sea areas into zones (posta) to be assigned to crews and in which to fish. The most mysterious of the rituals remains the "cardata da cruci", which consisted, and still consists, of carving the right cheek of the swordfish with one's fingernail, so as to leave a multiple sign of the cross.
Among the various hypotheses, it seems credible that it was a sign of prosperity or recognition of the fish for its noble fighting prowess. The fisherman does not have to make the sign. A ritual that has now vanished, although many words remain in dialect, was to accompany fishing with chants in Greek, because superstition wanted that if the fish were sung in another language it would be lost. The heritage of these rites denotes the cultural stratification rooted in the territory of Bagnara Calabra, known as the 'pearl of the strait' and the centre of swordfish fishing.
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Production and economic factors
Many activities related to swordfish fishing and more generally to blue fish have always represented an important work opportunity for the population of Bagnara. In particular, it was traditional for sailors and fishermen to be employed in pastry workshops during the long winter months of forced inactivity and for women to contribute to the family budget by peeling almonds. Even today, despite the limits imposed by European directives and because of uncontrolled fishing in the past decades, which has impoverished the marine fauna, fishing and related activities still represent one of the main economic activities in the Calabrian municipality. The production sector is characterised by both small recreational fishing boats and medium-sized fishing cooperatives, to which are added, in the period from April to October, a number of 'gangways' which are the modern evolution of the 'luntro' for daytime swordfish fishing. From the point of view of employment, fishing is also an important resource for the population, both in terms of catching fish and more generally for the ancillary activities generated by fishing (marketing, conservation, boat maintenance). This means that during the months of highest production, seasonal local staff are employed.
Cultural factors
The product's cultural link to the area is highlighted by the very ancient rituals linked to fishing, the special boats whose construction method can be traced back to the Phoenicians and the catching technique typical of the area. For centuries, fishing has influenced the way of life of the local population, who spend their time in the summer fishing and related activities and in the winter confectionery activities. An example of this are the rowers who, with their powerful arms, used to drive the luntri in summer and bake nougat directly in the boiler over a direct fire in winter.
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